Consumers are demanding higher quality personal care items in the common supermarket aisles that traditionally offer the most basic mass-market varieties.
The people I spoke with researching this skincare article wanted not only to save gasoline and multiple market trips - they wanted the deep discounts of box stores like Sam’s Club and Costco, the rolling price deals and in-and-out ease of a Wal-Mart or Target with the organic/natural product stock abundance of Whole Foods at low prices.
A hard bill to fill.
The explosive growth and interest in organic/natural skincare is fueled by the older baby boomer population and “NPRents” – a term coined in jest by Radar magazine to describe the newest variation of the classic Yuppie: Educated, affluent progressive young parents who have a generalized fear of toxic ingredients and care about fairtrade farming.
Holistic lifestyle savvy boomers started turning 50 in the mid-1990’s and have been steadily switching to natural skincare products to preserve their looks and health.
Across the board consumers are demanding non-synthetic chemical toothpastes, deodorants, skincare, shampoo and makeup.
For me, the journey towards organic/natural skincare began with a quest in 2001 to find a deodorant that did not contain aluminum after a breast cancer scare (luckily benign) made me rethink what I applied daily to my skin.
As a result of these health concerns and ecological conscientiousness, this organic/natural personal care market is exploding in mass market retail outlets.
Several factors are contributing to the strong growth of the market.
A growing awareness of organic food and concern about environmental issues has increased consumer interest and demand in natural products for total well-being. Natural personal care products, retail trends and sales projections from the founders of companies such as Pangea Organics, and Rachel Perry, a pioneer in the organic/natural skincare industry, will offer valuable insight on what you should consider in making your purchase.
What is natural and what is organic?
The term “Natural” and “Organic” are not the same. The market is full of body care products labeled “natural.” Remember that natural is an illusory marketing term not regulated by the government.
A lotion or shampoo labeled as natural does not necessarily mean it is mainly comprised of natural ingredients. Products labeled “natural” can often use synthetic preservatives and other un-natural chemical ingredients alongside plant ingredients.
The term natural has a broad meaning. According to government labeling requirements, “natural” means that an ingredient has not been significantly altered from its original state, nor has anything been removed from it (with the exception of water), nor have other substances been added to it.
Organic products are made with ingredients grown without any synthetic chemicals, sewage sludge or GMOs (genetically modified organisms), and are third-party certified. Organic products typically do not contain synthetic ingredients because you cannot certify a synthetic as organic. “Certified organic” means that an official certifying agency has approved the producer has grown and handled the ingredients adhering to strict procedures.
Only products which are grown according to the organic standards and verified by an approved certifier may be called “organic” or “certified organic”. All “organic” products must be certified as such to be called “organic.”
Dr. Bronners soaps
The terms Organic and biodynamic are similar; both are grown without chemicals and GMOs. However, the biodynamic® method of agriculture, developed by Dr. Rudolf Steiner, the founder of Swiss organic skincare line Weleda, is a holistic practice where all things are considered living inter-related systems - animals, plants, and the solar system.
Biodynamics is a sustainable form of ecologically responsible agriculture that predates the organic movement by replenishing the soil and adding vitality to the plant, soil and/or livestock.
The argument for organic skincare versus traditional products.
People are more aware of the number of toxins we apply on our largest organ – our skin - in the name of comfort and/or beauty. Up to 60% of what you put on your skin will absorb through the skin and into the bloodstream.
A study conducted by Mount Sinai School of Medicine in New York, which measured the amounts of environmental contaminants in humans, found an average of 91 industrial compounds, pollutants and other chemicals in the blood and urine of volunteers.
According to the Environmental Working Group, one way to reduce your exposure to chemicals is to use organic natural products.
Packaged Facts, a division of MarketResearch.com noted in their research that The Baltimore Sun (May 14, 2007), reported that the American Cancer Society had listed 216 chemicals that caused breast cancer in animal tests. Ninety-seven of the carcinogens are breathed in by humans or used in our consumer products, which included personal care products.
Mass merchandisers like Wal-Mart and Target are introducing natural & organic personal care products, supermarkets like Safeway and Loblaws are expanding product ranges, whilst drugstores are launching exclusive products.
The Organic Monitor cited the launch of ErbaOrganics organic skin care products by Target stores earlier this year. Wal-Mart has entered the arena introducing Natural & Organic Bodycare Oasis sets in 366 superstores.
Also mentioned was Be Fine Food Skin care, a paraben-free range of skin care products started by Florence Sender, now launched in CVS and Rite Aid drugstores.
Joshua Scherz, the Natural Markets Coordinator and head of sales of the one–year old company in Newton, MA. noted: “We made a conscientious decision as a natural skincare line to appeal and pursue the mass market buyer and the customer. What you put on your body is as important as what you put in your body, you have to feed the skin the best foods - just as you would your stomach. All our 181 ingredients we use are food based.”
The Cost factor
Consumers are willing to pay more for organics because of the perception that it is better quality. Buying organic supports organic farming and is one big step in lowering pesticide use. Organic products are more expensive because the ingredients usually are more expensive; it is more labor intensive and has to conform to more stringent regulations.
In Macleans January 2005 report, Jeff Binder, co-founder of www.saffronrouge.ca, a Canadian online organic cosmetics store, noted organic skin care tends to be made with better ingredients.
“These products contain herbs, oils and juices produced without synthetic pesticides, fertilizers or genetically modified ingredients. In other words, they’re better for the environment, and they’ll leave less chemical residue on your skin. But they’re also quite a bit more expensive than your average skin care product.”
Lines like JASON, Zia and Aubrey Organics in the US have extended their men’s stock range.
Even corporate behemoth Clorox acquired Burt’s Bees, the earth-friendly maker of lip balms, hand soaps, shampoos and body lotions based in Durham, N.C.
MarketWatch reported in October 31, 2007 that by 2006, Burt’s products had racked up $250 million in sales at retailers, according to the company’s Web site. “Clorox has virtually zero presence in personal care categories in the U.S,” wrote Lehman Bros. analyst Linda Bolton Weiser. “We wonder how much Clorox can really do to enhance the distribution of Burt’s Bees.”
The deal is part of a broader effort by Clorox to grab market share in what it calls two major consumer trends: “green” products made to do less harm to the environment, and products made with natural ingredients that are better for consumers.
Skincare line Rachel Perry is widely considered to be a natural skin care pioneer brand - one of the first organic/natural skin care lines to occupy shelf space in traditional grocery stores.
Founder and CEO Rachel Perry has received numerous awards including “Entrepreneur of the Year” by the Small Business Administration and appearing on the cover of the inaugural issue of “Entrepreneurial Woman.”
She is active in Rainforest preservation and animal rights, among other important causes.
Rachel Perry’s liplovers
Ms. Perry spoke about her company’s growth into mass-markets.
“It started about 10 years ago in 1997, when some of our heath food distributors contacted us with news that Safeway’s and Ralph’s (Southern California) were interested in carrying our natural skin care line. We even found out that some of our loyal health food customers had been asking store managers at these two grocery chains why they weren’t carrying Rachel Perry products. This eventually led to our skin care being introduced to a mainstream audience for the first time through traditional grocers.”
Ms. Perry shared how she thought past the confines of marketing her line solely in niche health food stores, and why she courted mass market retailers.
“I wanted as many people possible to experience my skin care and make up products, which I consider to be the best natural line ever created. Clearly, it meant that my products, which already enjoyed a devoted following in the Health Beauty market would eventually reach consumers in the mass market - especially the grocery chains across America.
It was inevitable as the change in consumer’s lifestyle over the years have gravitated toward one of being natural and healthy. In 2005, we were in the final stages of implementing an aggressive strategy to move into the mass grocery market to accommodate the rising demand of consumers seeking natural products, which we know are healthier and more effective.”
Perry’s line is well served by her eye-catching packaging that is part art deco, part artist Peter Max in its inspiration; the product stands out on shelves.
Edward Kim, president of Rachel Perry explained what separated the Perry brand from the rest. “Rachel Perry is the pioneer that introduced and created the world’s first skin care and make up line using natural ingredients such as vitamins, herbs and other botanicals in 1971. So, you’re going with a powerful and innovative brand that already enjoys a huge base of consumers who recognize the quality.”
Tom’s of Maine is an all-American story of hard work paying off. In 1968 - with a $5,000 loan – founders Tom and Kate Chappell began making products for home use that would not harm the environment.
During their first five years the company’s product line expanded to include natural personal care products. In 1975, Tom’s premiered the first natural toothpaste on the market. Organic natural baby shampoo, deodorant, mouthwash, and shaving cream soon followed.
By 1983, Tom’s of Maine was well established in the health food channel with annual sales near $2 million. Back then the company knew to continue growth they had to go mainstream: Supermarkets and drug store chains. Progressive Distributors and CVS were the first to agree to stock Tom’s of Maine next to the big corporate brands.
Some of the organic/natural vendors have a long history originating in homeopathic tinctures and medicines that morphed into todays natural skincare lines, like Nelsons of London, Europe’s oldest and largest manufacturer of homeopathic medicines.
Nelsons’ 140 year history begins with the founding father of homeopathy, Samuel Hahnemann. In 1860, his student, Ernst Louis Armbrecht, moved to London where he opened a homeopathic pharmacy and married Charlotte Nelson in 1866 and soon after began trading as Armbrecht, Nelson & Co, later to be abbreviated to A. Nelson & Co.
Newcomer Kopali Organics has introduced their skincare products along with their food items to Whole Foods. Like most lines carried by the specialty supermarket, Kopali is free of synthetic chemicals, parabens and stabilizers. No water is added to the Vegan, cruelty-free products which are dermatologist tested. Even their packaging is 100% recycled board with vegetable oil inks.
Smaller vendor Monoi Tiare Tahiti sells a limited line of coconut oil products (soaps and oils) with the natural essence of tiare flowers. No preservatives, emulsifiers or animal products are added as genuine Monoi oil - manufactured in Tahiti from pure Tahitian coconut oil and Tiare flowers – is used. The official Appellation d’Origine seal is on every Monoi product.
Dr. Bronner’s pure soaps is an unusual smaller company with an interesting history that shaped the private company’s fervent support of fairtrade and worker’s rights.
Emanuel Bronner was a third generation master soap-maker from an orthodox Jewish family in Heilbronn, Germany, who emigrated to the U.S. during the 1920’s. After the Nazis nationalized the soap factory in 1938, his parents and most of his family died in the Holocaust.
Bronner bucked the trend of U.S. soapmakers usage of synthetic surfactant formulations, going into business for himself in the late 1940’s. His castile soaps and the company philosophy resonated powerfully with the counter-culture of the 60’s and 70’s, and he became an icon of the time.
His son Ralph Bronner spoke with me regarding his company’s commitment to giving back 70% of their earnings for fairtrade and other charitable causes, and noted that his salary was only five times the lowest paid employee.
His staff has zero turn-over, starting salaries are at $30,000 a year and they enjoy $3000-$21,000 annual bonuses and full Blue Cross healthcare. Their company commitment to holistic life extends far beyond their certified organic ingredients. Their philosophy is prolifically written all over their products touting many positive messages.
Dr. Bronner’s soaps are certified under the USDA’s National Organic Program. “We will never fudge on standards, or sell out to corporate interests, we won’t do it,” added Bronner.
Up and comer, IKOVE by Florestas founder Chao-Tang Liu spoke with me of about his company’s growth and what non food buyers should consider.
“Our business had grown slowly in first 4 years until we launched the certified organic line. It’s like a learning process, as a new comer and a foreigner in this business, we realized that if a small company wants to survive in this market, we have to stay ahead of it with attractive packaging. After we launched a certified organic line by Ecocert and re-designed the packaging, our sales doubled in 2007.”
IKOVE is manufactured in Sao Paulo, Brazil. As the demand of clean, natural personal care increased every year, the founder of Florestas, Fernando Lima suggest Liu use the bounty of the rainforest in his native country for IKOVE products.
At Lima’s advice, Liu uses the powerful Brazilian rain forest ingredients in IKOVE natural personal care. “That’s how we started the business. Before Acai become famous in USA, we already used it in our shampoo and creams.”
“In Fall 2007, we had a chance to make a presentation to the Global purchase team in Whole Foods - a new, unique, exclusive, organic and fair-trade line is born. We have been working so hard to get this line done and will be introduced in March 2008 in 260 stores of Whole Foods.”
Liu stressed it was good business sense for the mass marketers to follow the continued success of the organic food sales growth in their stores, and expand their shelves for organic and natural skincare lines as well.
“I would tell other mass market retailers by carrying our line they are supporting organic agriculture, fair-trade, sustainable green business. It would help the retailer’s social responsibility image, while consumers would enjoy the truly clean products on their skin and enhance their well-being.”
Liu recommended that non food buyers in mass-markets doing their homework on his line check out the Buriti Lotion, as one of IKOVE’s standout products.
“It formulated with many of unique Amazonian botanicals, which contains powerful antioxidants, vitamins and great healing properties for environment damaged skin (sun burned and wind burned). Our best seller product is our shampoo. I think it is because people use shampoo more frequently than creams.”
Liu’s hope is within a five year period – IKOVE will continue to catch the eye of more mass-market distributors and chain supermarkets looking to add to their organic skincare inventory.
Dr. Hauschka Skin Care is diligent with ingredient selection. Hauschka manufacturer WALA Heilmittel has been studying and working with healing plant and mineral extracts since the 1940’s.
WALA Heilmittel supports sustainable, ecologically sound agricultural practices by obtaining as many of their ingredients as possible from certified Biodynamic and organic sources.
Pangea Organics
Pangea Organics founder and CEO Joshua Onysko spoke with me about his award-winning masstige (mass-market prestige lines) line of soaps and skin care currently on the shelves at Whole Foods.
Onysko’s entrepreneurial drive combined with his personal commitment to organics and holistic skincare was fueled by his extensive world travels.
These qualities sparked the inception of Pangea Organics five years ago in Boulder, Colorado.
Onysko began as a baker at Whole Foods, and made soap in his garage at night. Today his company is 31 employees strong.
Pangea Organics is currently the largest cold-processed organic soap manufacturer in the US. In addition to bar soap, the line also includes liquid hand soap, hand and body lotion, shower gel, massage & body oil, facial cleanser, facial toner, facial cream, a facial mask and facial scrub and lip balms.
Their products are never made using petrochemicals, parabens, GMOs or other synthetic or harmful ingredients.
Onysko is passionate about his business growth. “If you look from a retailer’s perspective on this section of the skincare market, denying it space on your shelves is like pretending tomorrow doesn’t exist. The future is organic and natural and retailers need to pay attention to this. According to the Natural Market Institute research, there is 23% growth in natural skin products annually, just phenomenal growth.”
His best seller is Japanese Matcha Tea with Acai & Goji Berry Facial Mask, an item Whole Foods has a hard time keeping on their shelves.
The line has received a host of awards, including the ECO-Epicurean Awards ‘07, Beauty Innovator – Food & Wine Design and Business Catalyst Award ‘07, Top honors alongside of Bank of America’s “Keep the Change”. Natural Beauty Award ‘07 – Face Care: Face Mask Category, Japanese Matcha Tea with Acai & Goji Berry Facial Mask - Natural Health. And the Entrepreneur of the Year Regional Finalist ‘07 – Pangea’s Founder & CEO, Joshua Onysko was a Rocky Mountain Regional Finalist in the Category of Socially & Environmentally Responsible - Ernst & Young.
Concerns about additives
Preservatives:
A small amount of preservatives are necessary to keep molds and bacteria from growing. Those are usually found near the bottom of the ingredients list. Lotions especially because they are primarily water. The preservative has to be strong enough to kill bacteria that will be introduced into the product through repetitive human usage, like dipping a finger into a jar.
Alcohol can be used as a preservative, but must be used at a fairly high percentage and it can be drying. Essential oils (tea tree) have some anti-microbial effects but generally are not used in high enough percentages to be effective by themselves.
Parabens are found in many organic/ natural labeled skincare items.
Yet the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) in their report “Pharmaceuticals and Personal Care Products in the Environment: Agents of Subtle Change?” reported that parabens—methyl, propyl, butyl and ethyl (alkyl-p-hydroxybenzoates)—displayed estrogenic activity in several tests.
This means that these chemicals mimic your body´s own hormones and can have endocrine-disrupting action when they are rubbed into your body or washed down the drain into your drinking water.
The EPA also stated that “continual introduction of these benzoates (parabens) into sewage treatment systems and directly to recreational waters from the skin leads to the question of risk to aquatic organisms.”
Many preservatives break down into formaldehyde and should be avoided: diazolidinyl urea, quaternium-15, sodium hydroxy methyl glycinate are a few.
Other health concerns in traditional personal care items are over phthalates found in personal care and cosmetic items.
The report, titled “Not Too Pretty: Pthalates, Beauty Products and the FDA,” has its basis in a 1999 FDA study of toxins in the general population of the U.S. From a sample of 1,029 people, every one of them tested positive for phthalates in their blood or urine.
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